Gastronomy is not a word often found in a college student’s vocabulary. When I tell people I am taking a French Gastronomy course, they often look at me with a confused look and ask, “like the stomach?” Gastronomy actually deals with the culture and art surrounding food.
Very few restaurants in Athens could be classified as a true gastronomic experience. 9 Tables, on 9 N. Shafer Street, is one of the few exceptions. The restaurant has five ($50) to seven ($75) course meals, as well as vegetarian and vegan options. Owner and Chef Bill Justice accommodates various dietary restrictions and is willing to whip a dish together in a flash. Though the atmosphere of the somewhat gaudy restaurant doesn’t fit in well with conventional fine dining, the food certainly does.
I had a seven-course meal there, and aside from one dish, every course pleased my palate to utter bliss.
The meal began with modern twist on the classic caviar. Caviar was placed atop crème fraiche on two ceramic spoons. The crème fraiche toned down the distinctive sharp-tasting flavor of the caviar.
The second course was pumpkin soup in a vintage teacup. The playful teacup was the perfect serving portion for the savory soup. Too often, pumpkin soups are served spicy for some odd reason. It was great reasoning on the chef’s part to go a different route.
The Moroccan carrot salad starred as the third course. The vegetable was warmly welcomed as refreshing after-the-pumpkin-soup course. The carrots were marinated long enough to capture the smoky flavor of the marinade yet still hold the crunch of the raw element.
The fourth course was by far the highlight of the meal. Often considered a fan favorite for 9 Tables, the mussels in the white wine sauce rarely leaves the monthly changing menu for long. The buttery rich sauce felt a sort of a guilty pleasure, being unhealthy with so much satisfaction. The mussels were one of those dishes that I wish never ended.
For the fifth course, the country rib with pickled watermelon made me once again have faith in pairing savory with watermelon. Perfectly cooked bacon was wrapped around the tender, succulent rib. Never have I tasted better bacon.
On a sour note, I regret choosing the filet mignon over the salmon for the sixth course. The filet was poor quality and I’ve had better hanger steaks than this filet.
Yet the meal ended on a high note with dessert. The crème brulee was served in a shallow dish with a balanced ratio of vanilla custard to caramelized sugar. I was also introduced to an amazing new coffee, Dawn Chorus. I’d say it competes with Silverbridge coffee in my book.
I cannot recall any other meal in my life that has lasted three hours. Those three hours were filled with good conversation, not only with my date, but also with Chef Justice. He comes off as a very charismatic figure. Since the kitchen is in full view, he constantly talks to guests and keeps an eye on the timing of food.
On one Yelp review, a reviewer wrote he would go to 9 Tables for McDonald’s style food just to enjoy Chef Justice’s company. That certainly speaks volumes in itself. While I cannot say I would go as far as to order $75 worth of McDonald’s, I will be enjoying Chef Justice’s company and food once again.
Cassie Fait is a senior studying journalism and Women’s, Gender and Sexuality Studies. Email her at cf301411@ohio.edu or find her on Twitter at @foodiefait and Instagram at @cassiefait.
